Artist Paint Brush Page - with Info on - Brushes For Working In Oils -Artist Paint, oils, acrylic, watercolor, fabric, canvas, brushes, tips and techniques
![]() Welcome to PaintingTalk.com - Artist Paint Brush Page - with Info on - Brushes For Working In Oils -Artist Paint, oils, acrylic, watercolor, fabric, canvas, brushes, tips and techniques - An ARTtalk Web Site...the link between you, the visual artist, and the manufacturer of art materials. Established 1990 |
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Artists' BrushesAre you confused when you walk up to the brush racks in an art supply store? Do you wonder which type of brush to purchase? Natural or synthetic? Long or short handle? Seamless ferrule, seamed ferrule, no ferrule? Lacquered or natural handle? Wow! So many choices, so little knowledge! Many painters fall into the category of a "one-brush artist," mainly because their knowledge and budget are limited to what is at hand. If you have experienced any of these frustrations, the following information may help in making choices. Brushes fall into several general categories/qualities: utility and industrial, craft and children's, and fine art. Although there are many crossover brushes, for our purpose, we will concentrate on those that are considered fine art quality. The hair used in fine art brushes can be natural or synthetic. Natural furs and hairs are generally more expensive, but with proper use and maintenance, they can last a very long time. The fur or hairs can be sable (red is recognized as the premium sable), raccoon, ox, squirrel, or hog bristle. Chinese calligraphers often choose rat hair bamboo brushes for their fine point qualities and ink holding/dispensing properties. Most of the brushes in this category are individually handmade, with expert attention given to quality, uniformity, and longevity. The hairs are usually mounted with epoxy-type adhesive, which is resistant to solvents. The naturals include one family of brushes that is very versatile, strong and less expensive. Bristle (usually hog bristle) brushes are comprised of hairs that are considerably heavier than sable, ox or squirrel. They have great rigidity, super strength and are used as real "work horses" for brushed, textural applications. Some of the newer synthetic brushes offer the resilience and "feel" of the naturals, yet are priced more economically. The integrity of these brushes is very good. Their working strength and paint-holding properties are roughly the same as natural sable, and they respond almost identically to the canvas surface. Cleaning a synthetic brush is identical to cleaning a natural brush with one very important difference: Synthetics should never be exposed to hot water in the soaping/washing procedure. Heat mats the hairs and generally breaks down the structure of each bristle. The ferrule of most brushes is made of nickel-plated metal and is usually seamless in artists' quality brushes. Seamless ferrules mean less possibility for solvents, paints, oils and cleaners to invade the tightly compacted brush base and that the hairs are more likely to remain in place than when a seamed ferrule is used. There are some brushes that have no ferrule at all, e.g., handmade brushes usually designed for a specific application. Lettering quills are used primarily by sign painters. Quills are made of camel hair or selected squirrel hair and are known for their resilience and smooth, square edges. They are made with long hairs joined to a short handle with tightly wrapped brass wire. Oriental Hake brushes (usually made of sheep hair) are another style of brush that has no ferrule but has bristles bound by wire between the ends of a split handle. These two brushes have very flexible hair, can be charged with a lot of paint, and are designed for strong coverage. Most contemporary brushes have painted handles. This means longer brush life because coatings prevent oils, water or turpentine from soaking into the wood. Preventing these penetrations insures that there will be less swelling or splitting of wood near the ferrule. Over long exposures, ferrules loosen and bristles become dislodged. There are dozens of styles and types of brushes, and they are usually divided into common descriptive groups such as flats, brights, rounds, liners, and fans. Flats and brights are very similar, with the designation of bright meaning a flat brush with shorter bristles. Brights usually have more resilience (stiffness) and are very good for application of thicker paints. Rounds come in sizes from 0000 (minute) to giant wash brushes one inch thick. Liners and script brush designations usually indicate the shape and usage. These are brushes that have small round ferrules, filled with long, resilient hairs (natural or synthetic). Their long-haired, slender design is easily charged with paint and can create long, continuous lines easily. Many more designations can be found as well. For example, filberts are shaped like flats, but have softened "corners," allowing the painter to achieve a tapered stroke with soft edges. They are traditional favorites of floral painters. Fans and blenders are the same style, with fan-shaped hair, and raccoon is a favorite for this style of brush. Blending paints as they set wet on the canvas is this brush's strength. Surface blending is achieved without "gouging" into underlying paint. This brush is ideal for recreating animal fur or other wispy images. Let's face it--good brushes cost money. It seems foolish to spend that money and then not take care of them. Following are tips for general brush maintenance:
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