Painting Talk.com Artist Paint Brush Page Oils acrylic watercolor fabric canvas brushes tips and techniques

Artist Paint Brush Page - with Info on - Brushes For Working In Oils -Artist Paint, oils, acrylic, watercolor, fabric, canvas, brushes, tips and techniques


Welcome to PaintingTalk.com - Artist Paint Brush Page - with Info on - Brushes For Working In Oils -Artist Paint, oils, acrylic, watercolor, fabric, canvas, brushes, tips and techniques - An ARTtalk Web Site...the link between you, the visual artist, and the manufacturer of art materials.
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Artists' Brushes

Are you confused when you walk up to the brush racks in an art supply store? Do you wonder which type of brush to purchase? Natural or synthetic? Long or short handle? Seamless ferrule, seamed ferrule, no ferrule? Lacquered or natural handle? Wow! So many choices, so little knowledge! Many painters fall into the category of a "one-brush artist," mainly because their knowledge and budget are limited to what is at hand. If you have experienced any of these frustrations, the following information may help in making choices.

Brushes fall into several general categories/qualities: utility and industrial, craft and children's, and fine art. Although there are many crossover brushes, for our purpose, we will concentrate on those that are considered fine art quality.

The hair used in fine art brushes can be natural or synthetic. Natural furs and hairs are generally more expensive, but with proper use and maintenance, they can last a very long time. The fur or hairs can be sable (red is recognized as the premium sable), raccoon, ox, squirrel, or hog bristle. Chinese calligraphers often choose rat hair bamboo brushes for their fine point qualities and ink holding/dispensing properties.

Most of the brushes in this category are individually handmade, with expert attention given to quality, uniformity, and longevity. The hairs are usually mounted with epoxy-type adhesive, which is resistant to solvents. The naturals include one family of brushes that is very versatile, strong and less expensive. Bristle (usually hog bristle) brushes are comprised of hairs that are considerably heavier than sable, ox or squirrel. They have great rigidity, super strength and are used as real "work horses" for brushed, textural applications.

Some of the newer synthetic brushes offer the resilience and "feel" of the naturals, yet are priced more economically. The integrity of these brushes is very good. Their working strength and paint-holding properties are roughly the same as natural sable, and they respond almost identically to the canvas surface. Cleaning a synthetic brush is identical to cleaning a natural brush with one very important difference: Synthetics should never be exposed to hot water in the soaping/washing procedure. Heat mats the hairs and generally breaks down the structure of each bristle.

The ferrule of most brushes is made of nickel-plated metal and is usually seamless in artists' quality brushes. Seamless ferrules mean less possibility for solvents, paints, oils and cleaners to invade the tightly compacted brush base and that the hairs are more likely to remain in place than when a seamed ferrule is used. There are some brushes that have no ferrule at all, e.g., handmade brushes usually designed for a specific application.

Lettering quills are used primarily by sign painters. Quills are made of camel hair or selected squirrel hair and are known for their resilience and smooth, square edges. They are made with long hairs joined to a short handle with tightly wrapped brass wire. Oriental Hake brushes (usually made of sheep hair) are another style of brush that has no ferrule but has bristles bound by wire between the ends of a split handle. These two brushes have very flexible hair, can be charged with a lot of paint, and are designed for strong coverage.

Most contemporary brushes have painted handles. This means longer brush life because coatings prevent oils, water or turpentine from soaking into the wood. Preventing these penetrations insures that there will be less swelling or splitting of wood near the ferrule. Over long exposures, ferrules loosen and bristles become dislodged.

There are dozens of styles and types of brushes, and they are usually divided into common descriptive groups such as flats, brights, rounds, liners, and fans. Flats and brights are very similar, with the designation of bright meaning a flat brush with shorter bristles. Brights usually have more resilience (stiffness) and are very good for application of thicker paints. Rounds come in sizes from 0000 (minute) to giant wash brushes one inch thick. Liners and script brush designations usually indicate the shape and usage. These are brushes that have small round ferrules, filled with long, resilient hairs (natural or synthetic). Their long-haired, slender design is easily charged with paint and can create long, continuous lines easily.

Many more designations can be found as well. For example, filberts are shaped like flats, but have softened "corners," allowing the painter to achieve a tapered stroke with soft edges. They are traditional favorites of floral painters. Fans and blenders are the same style, with fan-shaped hair, and raccoon is a favorite for this style of brush. Blending paints as they set wet on the canvas is this brush's strength. Surface blending is achieved without "gouging" into underlying paint. This brush is ideal for recreating animal fur or other wispy images.

Let's face it--good brushes cost money. It seems foolish to spend that money and then not take care of them. Following are tips for general brush maintenance:

  1. Always clean your brushes well after each use with fresh solvent material, water, or a product specific to brush cleaning. Clean until no pigment remains.
  2. Use a mild, natural soap in the palm of your hand and massage the hairs gently to remove any residual pigment. Rinse well, gently squeeze out excess fluid, and then reshape.
  3. Brush conditioners are recommended to extend the life of natural-hair brushes.
  4. Store brushes tip-up to prevent bending (weakening) bristles.

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Brushes For Working In Oils

Although, in theory, one could use any brush to paint in oils, there are several styles and types of brushes that have been created more or less specifically for use with oils. These include various shapes, lengths, and different fiber content. Each family is comprised of different selections of shape and style.

The first classification, bristle brushes, is value priced in all size ranges and offers great working strength. Each is created using hog bristle hairs, and qualities can vary from rigid, course hair to soft, hand-selected white bristle hair. Either is useful to the oil painter, the more coarse brushes for laying in general color and the softer for smoother paint applications.

Bristle brushes are used to impart texture while applying paints and are the brushes of choice for encaustic and impasto techniques because they stand up well to the rigors of such demanding work. The most common ferrule (metal cone into which the brush bristles are placed) is nickel, which resists deterioration by paint/solvent contact. Many artists swear by them because of their incredible versatility, their near-indestructible construction, and their usefulness on both rigid and flexible grounds.

Another budget-priced brush group ideal for oil painting includes those constructed of ox hair. These brushes have strong, yet soft, hair and offer smooth, silky application. They charge well with paint and offer even application and smooth color with little or no brush marks. They represent a near opposite to the boar bristle brushes described in the previous paragraph. Priced from very economical to moderate, these brushes also have nickel ferrules and stand up well to chemical and solvent contact.

Considered by most oil painters to be the premier brushes for oil work, red sable brushes have been used for centuries by artists. The higher-priced red sable brushes are constructed from hand-selected sable hair and bound in nickel ferrules. Composite brushes, those made of a combination of sable and synthetics, offer added durability and resilience, especially when working on more rigid surfaces. Sables come in varied handle lengths and a large variety of sizes.

Synthetic brushes give a combined quality of strength and supreme flexibility. Their hair is very near that of sable, yet they can stand up to more demanding use without decline. While they are best suited to acrylic painting, they can be used for oil works as well.

"Exotic" hair can also be used in oil painting brushes. Some of the more unique include badger hair, water buffalo, and raccoon. Each is available in a variety of shapes and handle lengths.

Specific shapes of paint brushes have been developed over the years in an attempt to assist the artist in his/her work. It would be difficult to say which shape is the most popular, but near the top would have to be "flats." These brushes have neat square edges, pointed tips, and moderately long hairs. They charge well with paint and deliver strokes that vary from fine to broad, depending on pressure and angle of application.

"Brights" are similar to flats but have shorter hair length. They are a bit stiffer and, while they hold less paint, offer a strong angular application. Ferrules are generally nickel and handle length is long. Well suited to impasto work and divisionism, they offer edge control for easy application of color areas. Here, again, changing the angle of application can create fine to broad strokes.

"Filberts" are somewhat like flats, but have rounded corners, so they offer a softened or rounded shape of paint application. They hold their shape well and are a favorite of floral painters because they so easily render petal shapes onto the canvas.

Another general favorite is the "round." It maintains a perfect point, has moderate length, and handle lengths from moderate to long. Small rounds are used primarily for detail work and signatures. Medium to large rounds are used more for utility paint application. Ferrules are usually nickel.

"Fan" and "blender" style brushes are shapes that lend themselves to specific duties. Fans are used for creating repetitious shapes like fur or grasses. Blenders have long, soft hairs and are ideal for blending one area of color seamlessly into another. These come in many hair qualities, but are one place where one might expect to find exotic hairs used. Ferrules are usually nickel.

Care of fine brushes is essential to their long life. One accepted method for cleaning oil brushes is to first remove the excess paint with an old rag. Soak the bristles in solvent/cleaner (preferably without resting the brush tip against the bottom of the container). Then clean a second time in a fresh solution to remove all traces of paint. Wash with a cleansing soap in the palm of your hand (low pressure against bristles).

Press dry with a clean cloth and then condition the hairs with light oil. Special brush cleaners, such as "The Masters," are available, and each offers the assurance of not only clean, but also conditioned bristles.

Store brushes tip up in a canister, flat in a drawer or box, or create a brush caddy. Threading the handles through the weave of an open-weave placemat can easily make one. Simply roll it up to store or transport.

Armed with these tips, the next time you stand before a brush rack, maybe it won't seem so confusing. Choose the right brush for the right job and you will be miles ahead. Your retailer will be happy to assist you in making your choice, if necessary.

 

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